I am dancing a lot lately, and I am listening to tango music even more. I have taken to looking up the lyrics of the songs that I like so that I can sing them with the music (and understand the parts I cannot figure out on my own – BTW anyone know a good on-line dictionary which would also contain Argentine slang? a monolingual one would do), and they are ever so beautiful! In fact, I hardly ever listen to other music than tango anymore – there still seems to be so much to discover – and while I am perfectly content that way, I have a feeling it might sometimes be a bit overwhelming for those around me, who think that there are only so many times you can listen to a tango...(apart from listening to tango on my iPod, which is quite harmless, I love listening to tango CDs in the living room on a quiet evening at home... or when receiving guests... and when I am cooking... and baking... and getting dressed up and ready to go out... I just like it as a background to my life.
From which it follows that I need more tango music, right? So that people don´t get bored listening to the same tangos all over again and again:)
I have great hopes concerning tango music to buy when I go to Buenos Aires. And the shoes, of course. The shoes...
And the dancing, I suppose...?
Well, the thing is.. I have already got my ticket to Argentina. And the place to stay. And much as I long to dance in the milongas of Buenos Aires, I would also like to see a bit of the country and not just its capital city. I find that seeing the countryside may be very illuminating when getting to know a country, because a capital city will always be the capital. We´re planning to travel up to the north-east, to the provinces near the Bolivian and Chilean border. So I am really looking forward to the whole trip, and have started counting down the days till February.
I am also looking forward to taking some classes in Buenos Aires, and of course to the milongas! But, reading people´s posts about the dancing in B.A., I wonder... Why do some people consider it to be nothing short of paradise? And then, again, specify that ´even´ in B.A. there are some bad dancers...?! Well, of course, there are bound to be better and worse dancers, aren´t there, they are humans like everyone else and not everyone is a born dancer. I know quite a few Argentines who couldn´t dance to save their lives, and why should they?
I do hope that there will be more tangueros in B.A. who dance with the music, not just on it, who dance to connect with their partner, who know how to hold a woman, who know that less is sometimes more, who know how to pause. It may be thanks to the culture of not rushing things and, what is most important, NOT seeing tango as a sport (I am quite allergic to that kind of attitude – but, again, though you may find it more common in some countries than in others, I think it is a personal thing, just like when some people aren´t able to truly feel and enjoy classical music, or delight in the taste of good wine).
Don´t get me wrong, I can´t wait to dance in Buenos Aires, I believe it IS necessary for everyone who takes tango seriously; it is, after all, where it all began..
But then again, it is important to realize that the B.A. milongas are also attended by foreigners, who undoubtedly all go there to dance with porteños, and end up dancing with each other:) and why not? Why do people – foreigners travelling to B.A. – speak so dismissively of ´turistas´??? I live in a breathtakingly beautiful city which is one of the biggest tourist destinations, mainly because of its ´romantic atmosphere´. I have listened to countless tourists say, wistfully: ´It is a beautiful city, ever so lovely, if only there weren´t so many tourists...(sigh)´ Pardon me?! And what would YOU be doing here, then? (I have never actually said that, but the look of astonishment must have been pretty eloquent) We, the locals, have perhaps the right to complain that our favourite haunts are flooded with huge, loud groups of Italian, German, Japanese, and what-have-you tourists. But not the tourists themselves, that argument simply doesn´t hold.
Oh, and before I forget - what I am REALLY looking forward to is the cabeceo being a standard way of asking someone to dance, not just a magic thing that works with certain sensitive individuals...
11 comments:
The only way you will know the answers to your questions for certain is go to Buenos Aires. Then you will know. It's very hard to comprehend certain issues till you've been. Just so you know, you are going there at the height of tourist season. It won't be as delightful as off-tourist season. You will find out why when you get there.
You are quite right, Caroline - the best way to know is to go. I know February is high season, but then again, plenty of tourists go to places in off-tourist season (in order to avoid other tourists) which sort of neutralizes the whole scheme:)
But I assume that other tourists are simply a part of the whole picture.
And like in any other city/culture, the best way of visiting and understanding is to go with an open mind, adapt to the local customs and see what comes out of it.. Besides, I have a feeling Argentina, and esp. B.A. might be less of a cultural shock for Europeans than it is for North Americans - though I might of course be wrong.
I am sure I shall like it at least as much as you do:)
I think that being a tourist depend not so much in how in being foreigner but in an attitude.
Those are the people that can not adapt to the place they go, that don't try to understand the codes and way of thinking of the locals.
Those that don't want to know a place, just to think "I been there".
That's why some foreigners talk with nuisance about some tourist.
Hope to see you here soon!
Besos...
I see what you mean, Tanguillo; in my opinion, such people should not be allowed to leave their home country:) or else, if they really must travel, be only allowed to move around a limited area (sort of like visiting Disneyland, if you get the idea - and I don´t think they would mind it; I swear it once happened to me to walk around the town with an aquaintance from the U.S. who at one point stopped, contemplated the cobbled square and the Gothic church, spectacularly lit for the night, and exclaimed - ´This is just like Disneyland!´ I nearly fainted.
Organised groups of tourists should be banned altogether.
Serious travellers would only be the more welcome for it.. but I am digressing.
Hope to see you, too, and, maaaaybe, dance a tanda?;)
Kisses
It is great that you are going to BA. Your whole vision and experience of tango will change. It is hard to describe. One thing to know is that you need to strategize a little in order to get good dances. When you go to a milonga, no one will ask you to dance until they have seen you on the floor, so it is a catch 22. Also if you arrive with a guy, they will not ask you. It is part of the code. So. Going with a group, or with someone who can meet you there and show you off on the floor will give you a chance to be seen, and believe me, they see everything. Also, going to the afternoon dance at La Confiteria, alone, will probably get you some really nice dances with older gentlemen. Not all of them can dance, so watch first. But some of them...wow. They just plug right into the music. It is all about the musi. I will actually to to more concerts next time. Tango is alive, a living art form, and it is all about the music. Email me if you have questions. I had a magical time, and I will be back next November.
Re: With or without a guy...
When I went to BsAs, it was part of a small group - 3 leaders and two followers. One of the followers was/is my "regular" dance partner and close friend. At first, I thought that we wouldn't even be able to walk through the door together, or even get out of the same cab - for her to be able to get dances. But this was not the case.
I was careful not to give any signs - like even a rub/pat on the arm. I remained "aloof". Wandering to the bar, trying my best to cabeceo local followers - and failing miserably. If she was sitting for a while - I would go dance with her - for one tanda only. Then, that would stimulate interest.
We all sat at the same table together - as long as there is no intimate body language - everything should be fine.
Although once at Ideal - an older gentleman thanked me (cabeceo-like) after dancing with her. He was apparently keyed in on the truth despite my best efforts.
Now, if it's a couple at a table by themselves...that might be a different matter...
http://tangoinhereyes.blogspot.com/2007/09/argentine-slang-dictionary.html
http://www.elportaldeltango.com/english/dicciona.htm
Lunfardo is the slang of Buenos Aires, but use it with care!
Happy Holidays,
Maybe we will meet in person someday.
Happy Dances all year long,
Besos, E
Though it is the height of the tourist season, know that I was there in February and still had a wonderful time with locals, and danced with the local milongueros (and not with as many foreigners as I had expected)... you just have to know which places to go, that's all. ;-)
Either way, it's a magical city that will open itself to you in just the right way for you ;-)
I'll be there this February too, looking forward to sun!!
Happy New Year!
Is this the end of your blog? :-( I was enjoying it so much!
Do you know to recommend me an apartment for rent in Buenos Aires?? hope you can help me. I've never been in Argentina before, so I'm a kind of lost.....
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